A 3D-printed controller for Visual Pinball X and arcade games that sits on a desk or table. Real solenoids knock the box on every flip, an exciter under your palms plays the table's sounds as vibration, an accelerometer lets you nudge the table by shoving the box, and a slide-on LED marquee shows the game's DMD — or a neon synthwave show when nothing is running.
 |
 |
- Flipper buttons in the side walls, each firing a JF-1039 solenoid for 0.1 s — done by two timer relays, so the knock needs no PC software and has no lag
- Haptic table sounds: VPX sends the playfield sounds (flippers, bumpers, the rolling ball) to a USB sound card, an amp and a 50 mm exciter glued under the palm rest
- Nudge and tilt with a Raspberry Pi Pico running Pinscape Pico and an LIS3DH accelerometer
- Arcade layout too: joystick, 6 buttons, coin and start — a normal gamepad for RetroBat / MAME
- 128 × 32 LED marquee (two P2.5 HUB75 panels, ESP32 running ZeDMD): the live DMD in pinball, the game's logo while you browse RetroBat, a neon synthwave show when idle — and, built into the marquee itself, a neon NO SIGNAL / WAITING FOR PC show whenever the PC isn't connected
- Status screen (LilyGO T-Display-S3): nudge meter, tilt warnings, flipper-coil heat, the table name
- One cable in: 12 V and USB on a single GX16-8 cable; one more to the marquee. That cable comes from a termination box under the desk (see Why GX16); without one, plug a 12 V supply and a USB cable in separately
- Prints without supports on any 256 mm bed; ready-made Bambu Studio projects with every setting; fully parametric OpenSCAD model
- How it works
- Parts list
- Step 1 — Print the parts
- Step 2 — Prepare the electronics
- Step 3 — Wire it up
- Step 4 — Bench test
- Step 5 — Assemble
- Step 6 — Set up the PC
- Customising
- Troubleshooting
- Design notes
- Build it with Claude Code (optional)
- Repository layout
- Credits & licence
One cable brings 12 V (pins 1-4) and the PC's USB (pins 5-8) into the IN socket on the back. The 12 V goes to two lever-connector bars inside; the USB goes through a USB isolator into a 7-port hub on the cover plate, which carries every board.
- Buttons and joystick go to a zero-delay USB encoder — a plain gamepad on the PC.
- Flippers: each flipper button's own signal on the encoder (5 V while pressed) also triggers an XY-J02 timer relay. The relay closes for 0.1 s and pulls in its solenoid; when it lets go, the spring fires the plunger into a striker block in the side wall: the knock. Pure hardware.
- Sound: VPX plays the playfield sounds on a USB sound card; an amplifier drives the exciter stuck under the top panel, so you feel the ball and the flippers.
- Nudge: a Raspberry Pi Pico with an LIS3DH accelerometer runs Pinscape Pico and reports the box's shoves as gamepad axes; VPX turns them into nudges.
- Marquee: the DMD socket passes 12 V and USB on to the marquee, where a 10 A converter powers two LED panels and an ESP32 draws the picture.
- Status screen: a T-Display-S3 in the palm rest, fed by a small helper program on the PC.
The links are examples that match the dimensions the case is designed for (no affiliate links). Equivalent parts from any seller work; check the sizes in the Notes column.
| # | Part | Qty | Notes | Buy | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
1 | XY-J02 timer relay module (62 × 38, 3-digit display) | 2 | One per flipper. Mode P1.1, time 00.1 s | AliExpress |
 |
2 | JF-1039 / JF-1039B pull solenoid, 12 V, 10 mm stroke | 2 | 39 × 20 × 26 body, 2 × M4 tapped holes (diagonal). ~2.4 A each | AliExpress |
| 3 | 1N5408 diode | 2 | Across each solenoid (flyback) | any | |
 |
4 | XH-M543 amplifier (TPA3116D2, 2 × 50 W) | 1 | 92 × 68 × 20, holes 85 × 61 | AliExpress |
 |
5 | 50 mm exciter, 4 Ω 25 W (adhesive pad) | 1 | Ø33.5 pad, Ø50 body, 30 mm tall | AliExpress |
 |
6 | PCM2704 USB sound card stick | 1 | Plugs straight into the hub | AliExpress |
| 7 | 3.5 mm ground-loop isolator + 3.5 mm-to-bare-wire lead | 1 + 1 | Stops the hum between the sound card and the amp | any car-audio one | |
 |
8 | 7-port USB 2.0 hub board (FE2.1, 84 × 44, 5 V jack, micro-USB in) | 1 | Holes 78.4 × 38.5 | Amazon |
| 9 | 12 → 5 V buck converter, 3 A (MP1584 type) | 1 | Powers the hub. Set / check 5.0 V before connecting | Amazon (6-pack) | |
| 10 | USB isolator, 480 Mbps (ADuM3165 type, e.g. DSD TECH SH-G01B) | 1 | Required — see Design notes. A 12 Mbps (ADuM3160) one passes everything except the sound card | Amazon | |
 |
11 | Raspberry Pi Pico H (RP2040, headers on) | 1 | The plain RP2040 Pico; the firmware file is PinscapePico-pico.uf2 |
AliExpress |
 |
12 | LIS3DH accelerometer breakout | 1 | 3.3 V only; two mounting holes 23 mm apart | AliExpress |
 |
13 | LilyGO T-Display-S3 (1.9" LCD, not the AMOLED one) | 1 | Status screen | LilyGO |
| 14 | USB-C male solder breakout (4 pads V / D− / D+ / G) | 2 | T-Display and marquee ESP32 — no room for a cable plug | any |
| # | Part | Qty | Notes | Buy | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
15 | 28 mm arcade buttons (switch built in, 3-wire lead) | 10 | 6 action + coin + start + 2 flippers. ≤ 40 mm below the panel incl. connectors | any zero-delay kit |
 |
16 | Joystick, 95 × 54 plate, 5-pin lead | 1 | 40 × 81 screw pattern, ≤ 35 mm body below the plate | any zero-delay kit |
 |
17 | Zero-delay USB encoder (EG Starts / "DragonRise", 86 × 36) | 1 | Its USB cable is soldered to the USB-B pins (no room for a plug) | any zero-delay kit |
| # | Part | Qty | Notes | Buy | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
18 | GX16-8 panel socket + plug | 3 pairs | IN (controller), DMD (controller), DMD (marquee). Ø16.3 panel hole | Amazon (5-pair kit) |
| 19 | 8-core 22 AWG shielded cable | 2 m + 0.5 m | The tether and the marquee link, wired pin-for-pin | Amazon | |
| 20 | 12 V power supply, ≥ 6 A | 1 | A double flip draws ~5 A for 0.1 s. Use a supply with screw terminals or a solid connector — a loose barrel jack resets the box on every flip | any | |
| 21 | USB-A female socket (solder), USB-A plug pigtail, micro-USB 90° adapter, short USB-A → micro-USB cable | 1 each | Tether USB → isolator; hub → DMD socket; hub input; Pico | any | |
| 22 | Lever connectors (WAGO 221, 5-way) | 4 | The +12 V and 0 V bars | any | |
| 23 | Wire: 18 AWG red / black (12 V), 22-24 AWG (signals), heat-shrink, spade connectors | — | any |
| # | Part | Qty | Notes | Buy | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
24 | P2.5 64 × 32 HUB75 LED panel (1/16 scan) | 2 | 160 × 80 × 15 each, M3 inserts on 125 × 65 | AliExpress |
| 25 | ESP32-WROOM-32 dev board, CP2102, USB-C | 1 | ≈ 29 × 52 | Amazon (3-pack) | |
| 26 | 12 → 5 V converter, 10 A, potted | 1 | 63 × 32 × 18 with ears | AliExpress | |
| 27 | Dupont jumpers, female-female, 20 cm | 16 | ESP32 → panel | any |
Rule: every joint between printed parts is an M3 heat-set insert and an M3 screw. Boards are held by plain machine screws driven straight into the printed posts (they cut their own thread).
| Part | Qty | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| M3 heat-set insert (M3 × 5, Ø4.0 hole) | 21 | cover ↔ case 6, T-Display clamp 4, exciter catch 2, marquee: tray floors 4, seam 3, rails 2 |
| M3 × 8 machine screw | 32 | relays, amp, hub, encoder, T-Display clamp, exciter catch, marquee plate |
| M3 × 10 countersunk | 6 | cover → case |
| M3 × 10 socket / pan head | 13 | marquee seam 3, LED panels 10 |
| M4 × 10 countersunk | 4 | solenoids (into their tapped frames) |
| M4 × 8 countersunk | 4 | joystick |
| M2 × 10 | 8 | Pico 4, ESP32 4 |
| M2.5 × 8 | 2 | LIS3DH |
| 3M Bumpon SJ5312 rubber feet (Ø12.7) | 6 | recesses under the cover |
| Steel M4 washer | 2 | glued on each striker face |
| Zip ties 4 mm, 3M VHB tape, ~2 mm foam tape | — | cable runs (17 printed tie mounts), exciter pad, T-Display |
| Part | Print time | Filament |
|---|---|---|
| Case | ≈ 12.6 h | ≈ 559 g |
| Cover (the electronics plate) | ≈ 5.2 h | ≈ 202 g |
| 2 marquee trays | ≈ 7.5 h | ≈ 338 g |
| Marquee mounting plate | ≈ 2.2 h | ≈ 85 g |
| T-Display clamp + exciter catch | ≈ 0.3 h | ≈ 12 g |
PLA, 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers — about 28 h and 1.2 kg (Bambu A1 estimates), plus ≈ 1 h for the test prints.
Soldering iron (also for the inserts), multimeter, small screwdrivers and hex keys, side cutters, heat gun or lighter for heat-shrink, a Windows PC.
Every print file has its settings built in. Pick your printer's folder in print/ —
bambu-a1/, bambu-p1s/ or bambu-x1c/ — and print:
test_prints.3mffirst (≈ 1 h): a fit coupon (solenoid cradle, a button hole, the GX16 hole) and a screw-post test. Check a button and a GX16 socket fit, and that an M3 screw grips the 3.0 mm post.cover.3mf, thencase.3mf(the big one: it fills a 256 mm bed, turned 90°).marquee_trays.3mf,marquee_plate.3mf,small_parts.3mf.
No supports anywhere. The case has no brim (no room); a clean plate (dish soap and water), a 65 °C first
layer and a draft-free room hold it down. Other slicers: STLs and settings are in print/.
After printing, melt the M3 heat-set inserts in (≈ 210 °C for PLA, iron square to the hole): 6 in the case's cover posts, 4 in the T-Display posts, 2 in the exciter pillars, and the marquee ones (Step 5).
2.1 Program the two relays. Power each XY-J02 from 12 V on the bench. Long-press SET, choose P1.1, set the time to 00.1 (short-press STOP cycles the decimal point: XXX. seconds, XX.X tenths — 0.1 s is the shortest step), long-press SET to save. One trigger = one 0.1 s pulse, however long the button is held — the coils are only rated for 2 s on.
2.2 Set the converters. With nothing on the output, power each buck converter and check (or set) the output: 5.0 V for the hub's buck, 5.0 V for the marquee's 10 A converter.
2.3 Flash the boards — details in firmware/README.md:
- Pico: Pinscape Pico v1.0.2 +
firmware/pinscape_config.json - Marquee ESP32: ZeDMD 5.1.8 with this project's patch (picture turned 180°, the offline show)
- T-Display-S3:
pio run -d status-display -t upload
2.4 Solder the encoder's USB cable to its USB-B pins (red 1 = 5 V, white 2 = D−, green 3 = D+, black 4 = GND) — the plug doesn't fit under the panel. Cut a USB-A cable for it.
2.5 Make the tether. 2 m of 8-core cable with a GX16-8 plug on each end, pin for pin (1 → 1 … 8 → 8). At the supply end, pins 1 + 2 = +12 V, 3 + 4 = 0 V (18 AWG-ish, two pins each), 5-8 = a USB-A plug to the PC (red 5, white 6, green 7, black 8). Shield to 0 V at the supply end only. The 0.5 m marquee link is the same, without the supply.
2.6 Beep-test every GX16 cable and socket before anything is powered:
docs/gx16_test.png shows the pin numbers on the face; no pin may beep to any
other, and 12 V must never reach pins 5-8. A loose wire here killed three hubs during the build.
Wire it in six steps — each picture highlights only that step's wires and lists them on the right. A small bridge means two wires cross without touching; a dot means they join. Build the cover on the bench first (every board sits on it), then the case parts.
3.1 Power
3.2 Flipper solenoids
3.3 Buttons and joystick
| Button | Encoder slot | PC button number |
|---|---|---|
| Left / right flipper (side walls) | ST / SE | 10 / 9 |
| Top row, left → right | K4 / R1 / R2 | 4 / 6 / 8 |
| Bottom row, left → right | K3 / L1 / L2 | 3 / 5 / 7 |
| Coin / start | K11 / K12 | 11 / 12 |
3.4 USB
3.5 Sound
3.6 Nudge
All together (full-size SVG):
The marquee (SVG):
Wires that cross from the case to the cover (12 V, 0 V, the right-flipper trigger, the left one, the
exciter) go through small JST-XH plugs so the cover comes off without cutting anything. The cable runs
and the 17 printed zip-tie mounts are planned in docs/routing_cover.png and
docs/routing_case.png. Board terminals: relay,
amp.
With the cover populated and everything wired, before closing the case:
- Meter first. Supply off: +12 V bar to 0 V bar is not a short; +12 V to every USB pin is open.
- 12 V only (no USB): both relay displays light, the amp's LED comes on. Touch the ST middle wire to the encoder's 5 V for an instant: one crisp knock on the left. Same for SE on the right. Never fire a solenoid with nothing in front of the plunger — the striker is what holds it in.
- Plug in USB: the PC sees all five devices (list and check in pc/README.md). The marquee shows its own NO SIGNAL / WAITING FOR PC show, then the neon show once the PC side runs.
- Buttons:
joy.cpl→ every button lights its number (table above); each flipper also knocks. - Sound: play something to "USB Audio DAC" — the exciter buzzes. Set the amp's left trimmer about a third up and raise it until loud passages just don't rattle.
Inside, with the right half of the case cut away:
Where every board sits on the cover:
- Case parts: buttons and joystick (4 × M4 × 8 countersunk from the top), encoder on its posts (4 × M3 × 8), the two GX16 sockets in the back wall (seen from the player: IN is the one nearer the right-hand side, DMD just left of it).
- Exciter (8): IPA-clean the panel, VHB tape on the aluminium pad, press it pad-first into the small ring under the palm rest for 30 s; the body hangs free. Screw the printed catch across the two pillars (2 × M3 × 8) — it sits 2 mm under the exciter and only catches it if the tape ever lets go.
- T-Display (9): clip its header pins flush, drop it face-down into the window pocket, foam tape on the clamp, 4 × M3 × 8.
- Cover (2): solenoids (12) with M4 × 10 countersunk from below, relays (11), amp (10), hub (13), Pico (15, pins up, USB toward the front), LIS3DH (16, square to the box), buck — all with machine screws into the posts. Dress each wire run through its tie mounts.
- Strikers: glue a steel M4 washer on each striker face in the case's side walls.
- Close: plug the case ↔ cover JST plugs and USB leads, lower the case onto the cover, 6 × M3 × 10 countersunk. Slide each solenoid in its slots until the plunger presses the striker with ~3 mm of spring preload, then tighten.
- Feet: six SJ5312 bumpers into the recesses underneath.
- Marquee (3, 17): melt the inserts in (3 in the right tray's seam bulkhead, 2 per tray floor, 1
into each case rail through the plate's guide hole). ESP32 on the left tray's end wall
(4 × M2 × 10), 10 A converter against the right tray's back wall (VHB), GX16 socket in the right tray.
Wire per the marquee picture, drop each panel in face-first and screw it from behind (5 × M3 × 10
each). Screw the trays together (3 × M3 × 10 through the seam), screw the plate on before sliding
it onto the case — see
docs/renders/marquee_plate_screws.png— then slide it down the back-wall rails and fix it with one M3 × 8 per rail.
Everything on the PC — VPX buttons and nudge, sending table sounds to the exciter, the DMD on the marquee, RetroBat, and the three small background programs (marquee, exciter sound, status screen): pc/README.md.
| Flippers | side buttons — knock on every press |
| Nudge | shove the box; a hard shove can tilt the table, as on a real machine |
| Coin / start | the two red buttons on the back edge |
| Arcade games | joystick + 6 buttons; coin + start together quits |
| Marquee | game DMD in pinball, logos in RetroBat, neon show when idle |
| Status screen | nudge meter, tilt warnings, coil heat (it turns red with "REST IT" — let the coils cool) |
- Case —
model/pinball_controller_v2.scad(OpenSCAD) is fully parametric: size, button layout, every board's position and screw size, the solenoid cradles, the exciter ring, the marquee. Setparttocase,cover,marquee_tray_left… or one of the*_loaded/assemblyviews. Theecho()checks warn about collisions;python docs/assembly_audit.py(must show no CLASH) andpython docs/cable_router.py(0 errors) check the whole assembly and the cable runs. Thenpython tools/make_print_files.pyrebuilds every STL and 3MF. - Knock — relay time 00.1 (tighter) up to 00.2 (longer pull, same knock); solenoid preload by sliding it in its slots.
- Nudge feel — VPX dead zone and gain (pc/README.md); axis signs in
firmware/pinscape_config.json. - Marquee show — scenes and transitions in
tools/synthwave/render.py;python tools/synthwave/render.py outwrites preview GIFs. The marquee's built-in offline show:tools/synthwave/offline.py+make_offline_firmware.py. - Wiring pictures, overview, renders —
tools/make_wiring_diagrams.py,tools/make_overview.py,renders/(Blender).
| Problem | Fix |
|---|---|
| The whole controller resets when you flip (both flippers especially) | The 12 V supply path can't deliver ~5 A: a weak supply, a loose barrel jack or screw terminal, thin wire. Use 18 AWG and both GX16 pins per polarity; tighten every 0 V screw |
| USB devices drop out on flips, hubs die | The USB ground is carrying coil current — fit the USB isolator (Design notes) and check the 0 V path |
| Hum from the exciter | Ground-loop isolator between the sound card and the amp |
| Sound card listed but no sound, behind the isolator | It's a 12 Mbps isolator — use a 480 Mbps (ADuM3165) one |
| Marquee red / dark / "ZeDMD not found" | The marquee must have its 12 V whenever its USB is connected; replug the marquee cable (12 V + USB together). Never open its COM port in a tight loop — every open reboots the ESP32 |
| Marquee picture upside down | You turned on a flip option in DmdDevice.ini — turn it off (the firmware already turns it) |
| Green and blue swapped on the marquee | ZeDMD RGB order 3 |
| A flipper knocks while held, or on its own | Relay not in P1.1, or its TRIG is on the wrong encoder pin (must be the ST/SE middle pin: 0 V at rest, 5 V pressed) |
| Ball moves the wrong way on a nudge | Axis signs in pinscape_config.json or UDAxisFlip in VPX |
| The table tilts or nudges by itself when you flip | The knock shakes the accelerometer — raise VPX's dead zone |
| Coin / start do nothing until you click the table | VPX's window doesn't have focus; the marquee service gives it back. Make sure it's running |
| Windows plays everything through the exciter | It made the USB sound card the default output when it appeared; switch the default back (pc/README.md) |
Grounds and the USB isolator. The tether carries both the 12 V coil current (pins 1-4) and USB (pins 5-8). USB's own ground (pin 8) is joined to the 0 V side at both ends — at the hub on the controller and at the PC — so it runs in parallel with pins 3/4. Any resistance in the 0 V path (a loose terminal, a thin wire, a cheap barrel jack) pushes part of each 2-5 A coil pulse through USB ground instead: links drop on every flip, and during this build it burned out several hub boards. A USB isolator in the controller's USB input breaks that loop — USB ground then only goes back to the PC, and the coil current can only return on pins 3/4. It needs to be a 480 Mbps type (ADuM3165): the cheaper 12 Mbps ADuM3160 passes the encoder, the Pico, the marquee and the screen, but Windows can't open the USB sound card through it.
This controller was built for a desk where every controller (light guns, this one) plugs into one termination box mounted under the desk. The box holds the 12 V supply and a USB hub, and each controller gets one locking GX16-8 cable carrying 12 V (pins 1-4) and USB (pins 5-8). That's the only reason the controller has a GX16 "IN" socket.
Two things learned the hard way about that one-cable route:
- USB must come from a hub inside the box, a few centimetres from the GX16 socket. The controller's hub links at 480 Mbps, and a plain pass-through from the PC down the 2 m tether (untwisted solder cups, an 8-core cable that isn't USB twisted pair) is too marginal at that speed: the marquee and sound card drop out. With the box's hub re-driving the signal it runs clean (an hour with zero drop-outs, flipper hammering included). Light guns get away with a pass-through because their Picos only run at 12 Mbps.
- A 480 Mbps USB isolator at the far end of that tether is one marginal link too many: on a short, proper USB cable it works; stacked on the tether, the marquee fails. 12 Mbps isolators avoid that but starve the USB sound card. With the box's hub in the path the setup ran without an isolator.
No termination box? Skip the GX16 IN socket and the tether, and bring the two feeds in separately:
- 12 V: a 6 A+ supply into a panel DC jack (5.5 × 2.1/2.5 mm, rated ≥ 7 A), wired to the same +12 V / 0 V bus the GX16 pins 1-4 feed.
- USB: a normal USB 2.0 cable (up to ~3 m) from the PC into a panel USB socket wired to the hub input, ideally through the 480 Mbps USB isolator (it passed the double-flipper test on a direct cable). Keep USB ground off the 0 V bus (see the next note).
The marquee link is unchanged either way. (The OpenSCAD model has the GX16 IN socket only; a "separate DC + USB" back-wall option is planned.)
Power budget. Two solenoids ≈ 4.8 A for 0.1 s, the marquee up to ≈ 3 A at 12 V on full white (far less on DMD content), the amp ≈ 1 A on loud passages, the logic < 0.5 A. A 6 A or bigger 12 V supply with solid connections is enough; each GX16 pin is rated 5 A, which is why 12 V and 0 V use two pins each.
Why hardware flippers. Triggering the relays straight from the encoder's flipper signal means the knock follows the button with no driver, no DOF configuration and no USB latency, and it works with every game. The knock is the spring firing the plunger when the coil lets go, so a 0.1 s pulse knocks as hard as a longer one and stays cool.
Case. 254 × 230 × 85 mm — 254 is the widest that fits a 256 mm bed, printed turned 90° so the nozzle never reaches the end of the A1's X travel on the wide top layers. The top layout (joystick, six buttons, coin / start) is unchanged from the original design. Everything electrical lives on the removable cover, so the case is just a shell with buttons.
This repository includes a CLAUDE.md that turns Claude Code
into a build assistant for this project. It knows the parts, the wiring, the safety checks, the firmware
and the PC setup, and it can run the flashing and configuration commands for you (it asks before each
one).
- Install Python 3 and Claude Code, and sign in.
- Get this project (
git cloneor download the ZIP), open a terminal in its folder and runclaude. - Ask things like:
- "Walk me through Step 3.2, one wire at a time."
- "Here's a photo of my relay — which screw is TRIG?"
- "My Pico is plugged in holding BOOTSEL. Flash Pinscape and load the config."
- "Set up the marquee service and the exciter sound on this PC."
- "The controller resets when I press both flippers. Help me find out why."
Take your time with the multimeter checks it asks for: they protect the hubs.
| Folder | What's in it |
|---|---|
print/ |
ready-to-print Bambu Studio projects for A1 / P1S / X1C, STLs, print settings |
model/ |
the parametric OpenSCAD model (pinball_controller_v2.scad) |
firmware/ |
Pinscape Pico config, the ZeDMD patch and the offline show |
status-display/ |
T-Display-S3 firmware, the PC helper and the exciter sound relay |
pc/ |
Windows / VPX / RetroBat setup |
tools/synthwave/ |
the marquee service and the neon synthwave show |
tools/ |
generators for the wiring pictures, the overview and the print files; test helpers |
docs/ |
GX16 test sheets, cable routing, board pinouts, assembly and routing checks |
images/ |
renders, wiring and overview pictures |
renders/ |
Blender scripts that make the product renders |
CLAUDE.md |
instructions that make Claude Code a build assistant for this project |
- Hardware design (
model/,print/,images/,docs/): CC BY-SA 4.0. - Code and scripts (
firmware/,status-display/,tools/,renders/,pc/): MIT — except the ZeDMD patch and attract-show files infirmware/(zedmd-*.patch,attract_*.h), which are built into ZeDMD and are GPL-2.0 like ZeDMD itself. - Pinscape Pico © Michael J. Roberts (BSD-style licence); ZeDMD (GPL-2.0) and libzedmd (GPL-3.0) © the PPUC team; dmd-extensions (GPL-2.0) © freezy; Visual Pinball X; RetroBat.
See LICENSE.